Being so close to an active volcano there are plenty of hot springs in this area, and spending a day just relaxing in the warm water is pretty high on the “must do” list for most visitors. Today is that day for us. There are plenty of options, ranging from a free spot along the river most of the local use, to blinged out resort complexes costing several hundred dollars a night to gain access.
A few nights back, we met a couple from Toronto at dinner who highly recommended the Springs Resort. It sounds like the kind place I would run screaming from – a glance at their website highlights visits by the Kardashians and scenes from The Bachelor – but they swear by a day pass package that combines access to the springs with events such as horseback riding and river tubing (the two we chose from a list of five). So, we’re giving it a shot.
It is a short drive from our hotel and, after checking in, we are loaded up on a bus that will take us down to the Club Rio area of the resort where all of the activities take place. It has a completely different feel than the main building, with hammocks and loungers along the riverbank and a big open air palapa with a restaurant. There are also hot springs nearby so while our initial plan was to finish our activities and catch the bus back up, I think we can hang here for a little while.
First up is horseback riding. My fellow adventurer wasn’t too keen on this event, but it is one of the better options available and she has begrudgingly given in.


During the busy season they go in groups with as many as 18 people, but today there is just two of us and the guide. Before long, we have the horses galloping for short spurts and I swear I hear the sound of a school girl giggling.

The trail takes us through the jungle, up to the top of a hill with great views over the property, and finally (unexpectedly) through the river.

We don’t ride horses a lot, but of the time we have, this has been the most fun, even though I’m sure my ass cheeks will be looking to collect on a debt tomorrow.
Next up is river tubing. Here the bus takes a half mile or so upstream where we start our journey through some mild rapids before doing it all over again a second time. The river gods are not in my corner this day as the current quickly separates me from my float buddy, taking away all opportunity to flip her into the cool water. Even so, slowly drifting down the river, bouncing off of rocks and spinning around makes for a pretty good time, and as we reach the exit point, we’re more than ready to do it again. No waterproof camera though so, unfortunately, no pics.
Our day pass also include lunch, which I fully expect to be some mediocre rice and beans number with a dry piece of grilled chicken. To my pleasant surprise, it is three course affair ordered from a menu, including a great ceviche. For dessert, I go with the gelato (obviously), which shows up in a plastic bag. The waiter explains this is how it is common in Costa Rica and how you would find it in small towns all across the country. To eat, you bite of the end of the bag and then squeeze.

It tastes great but, for the record, I have yet to see ice cream sold in tiny bags in any store we have stopped in, so it is entirely possible I have just been punk’d.
Thoroughly exhausted from allowing horses to carry us around and sitting in rubber tubes we’re in desperate need of a hot soak and head of to the nearby springs. Traveling in November pays out once again as they are virtually empty, allowing us to just relax and look out over the river through the trees.


The Club Rio area closes at 4pm and we push the boundary as much as we can before catching one of the last busses back up the hill. The springs at the main building are open until 10pm and we spend the next several hours giving those a try as well. Pushing 5 hours of sous vide, I feel fork tender all the way through so when the timer goes off, I’m ready to move along.
We make a quick run into town for dinner and to book a whitewater rafting trip for the day after tomorrow and then, despite no really doing anything all day, I’m out like a light by 9:00pm.