We got a good dose of rain overnight, not entirely unexpected given the time of year and how close we are to the rainforest. Nevertheless, the heavy pounding on the metal roof of our cabaña made for some nervous moment as to what the day might bring. Our plan is to drive about 20 minutes to Arenal National Park and hike a couple of trails there with views of the volcano and the lake (second largest in Central America).

Breakfast is a step down from the resort in Jaco but the fruit here is delicious no matter where you are (the pineapple especially) so it’s hard to go wrong. A few things we need to try to figure out exactly what they are, but nothing comes back up so we have no complaints.

The drive to the park is uneventful and while the parking lot has some cars in it, there are still plenty of spaces and no tour busses to be seen. Most places in Costa Rica have fees for tourists that are a little steeper than we are used to ($15 each to enter the park here), but everything is well maintained and sustainability is such a huge focus here that it does make handing over the colones a little (but just a little) easier.

The first of the trails is a 5km loop to a lookout point for the volcano. The rain comes and goes along the way, but the jungle is fairly think and not a lot of it makes it through the canopy, although we are uncharacteristically prepared in waterproof boots and jackets.

About two-thirds of the way in, the trail passes by a giant Ceiba tree that is supposedly more than 400 years old. It is one of the only trees that survived the hot ash and gas from the last volcanic eruption. I am traveling my own personal Lorax, so the need to stop for a full on photo shoot comes as no surprise.

Finally able to move on, we make our way to the volcano lookout. The weather has cleared somewhat, but not near enough to see the summit.

In the other direction, we can see a fair-sized piece of Lake Arenal.

With the long part of the loop out of the way it is a short final leg back to the car, unless of course you decide to go back the long way to hug the Ceiba tree one more time.

Despite the healing power of trees, the extra few kilometers take their toll on my beloved treehugger who opts to stay in the car instead of tackling the second trail. It is much shorter (only 1.8km) and we’ve come all the way to Costa Rica so I definitely feel I made the right call heading out on my own. Until the rain starts. Lots and lots of rain.

When they made this particular trail, one of the goals was to make it accessible to as many people as possible. It is nicely paved and very wide which, on a sunny day would make for quite a pleasant walk. Today it just means the canopy has been cut away above my head and that my high-tech waterproof jacket merely channels a downpour of water to my shorts.

It would be unmanly to let a little tropical rain force a retreat so I press on, stopping briefly to climb an observation tower before reaching the end of the trail at the lakeshore. Although the rain has stopped for the time being, the clouds are still pretty thick and the pictures less exciting than from the first lookout. On the way back to the car, however, I do come across a couple of wild turkeys also enjoying a stroll down the trail.

By this point, I’m soaked, the Lorax is tired, and the weather doesn’t look like it is going to change any time soon. So rather than head to another hiking spot we opt instead to head into town. It turns out Joey would actually like more ducks wearing shoes, meaning we now need to stop and check every souvenir shop in town trying to find one (without success). On a happier note, we do find a nice restaurant that serves up a nice ceviche. Suck it, Nick!

We’re on the move today, leaving the beach and our quiet resort for the town of La Fortuna near the Arenal volcano. It has been a relaxing five days in Jaco and, in retrospect, we came at the perfect time. The weather has been great and other tourists have been few and far between. That said, we’ve definitely done all we really care to do here so we’re ready to put it in the rear view mirror.

The drive to La Fortuna takes about 3.5 hours, even though it is only about 150km away. Narrow roads, slow trucks, and no room to pass make driving here a test of patience and today’s trip is no exception.

About 30 minutes out of Jaco, we come to a bridge over the Taracoles river. On our way south from San Jose we noticed people standing all along the edges which seemed a little strange, but had places to be and never gave it much thought. We probably wouldn’t have stopped going back across it today had one of our guides not mentioned that this is the best place in Costa Rica to see crocodiles.

Sure enough, looking out over the railing there are a dozen or more healthy-sized crocs lounging in the shallow water and parked up on the shore.

As there always is where tourists gather, trinket shops surround the parking lot, including one selling these guys, which remind us of the great trip to Indonesia we had with Joey not so long ago.

Not far from Taracoles, we start picking up elevation, passing through countless small villages as we wind back and forth along good, but not great, mountain roads. It is a huge change of scenery from the coast and, as we stop for a quick lunch, notably calmer (not that any part of Costa Rica has felt that hectic).

After working in a few other short stops, we finally roll into La Fortuna close to sunset. The town looks a little bigger and a little busier than Jaco, which seems like a good thing as there are more shops and restaurants along the main street as we pass through. Our hotel is a few minutes past the town on the way to Arenal, so we are able to get a good lay of the land on our way to check in.

There are far more tourists here than we have seen so far, although the hotel feels about half full and there are plenty of signs for discounted tours so clearly it gets much, much busier than this. A good number of travelers have packed into one particular restaurant and for good reason. For about $15 they drop a platter of piled high with chicken, ribs, beans, patacones, and the most delicious tortillas we’ve ever had on the table in front of us.

It is the best food of our trip so far but, despite our best efforts, we can’t finish. The mix of carbs keeps the meat sweats at bay, although by the time we get back to our room, a full on food coma has set in. Time to catch up on a few messages back home and watch a little TV in spanish (no english channels) before closing the book on another day.

One of the minor goals for this trip was to research whether if could be a place for us to have a place to spend part of the year. The hotel we are staying at is part of a big complex with about 600 homes, a golf course, marina, restaurants and so on. It feels a little sterile but would definitely have all of the creature comforts we are used to.

It turns out that having a place with all of the North American bells and whistles costs pretty much the same as having that place in North America. Everything is very nice, but by the time you add in all the various fees, it probably makes more sense to have the same thing in Florida or Arizona, which are both closer to home and easier to get to.

We’re headed up into the mountains tomorrow so for our last dinner in Jaco we set of in search of something different. There are a few different options we come across, but once we drive by a place that specializes in french fries, my trusty navigator will go no further. Salchipapas rank right up there with poutine, even with the gas station nacho cheese which seems like a Costa Rican twist.

As planned, we spent most of the day not far from a power outlet. Fortunately, we were able to find one near the pool so at least made it outdoors. And while it makes for a pretty boring travel report, we did manage to catch up of a fair number of things that were starting to fall behind.

We did finally venture out for dinner, walking down the beach after sunset to a small strip of restaurants we noticed on a previous drive by. The large river emptying into the ocean is much harder to spot in the dark, and for all of her previous aquatic adventures, my fellow traveler is less than enthused about having to wade through it. I take some solace that Costa Ricans seems environmentally conscious enough to not dump raw sewage directly into the rivers behind their houses, but I’m also glad that I’m sporting no open cuts on my legs.

We’ve also settled into a bit of a pattern of stopping by the small hotel cafe/bakery in the evenings when their fresh items are 2 for 1. Everything is pretty good, but the Tres Leches is fantastic and I usually pick up a couple to keep in the fridge as a healthy snack.

After burning a total of about 80 calories yesterday, we feel some need to get away from the hotel today. This area is surrounded by places all offering zip-lining, ATV tours and horseback riding. We’re not too excited about the latter two, and to be honest, we’ve zip-lined enough places that we probably wouldn’t go too far out of our way to do that either. What does catch our attention though is the couple of locations also offering the chance to rappel down a waterfall. That’s something we’ve never done before and it’s no secret I like a good waterfall so the pieces are falling into place.

First off though is breakfast. It’s a resort, so the typical buffet with a quiet table next to the pool. We had the same spot yesterday and while we were eating, a lizard wandered up, and stared at us for a while like it was looking for handouts. We’re not particularly good prospects (I’m not sure what resort lizards eat and don’t feed wild animals anyway) and after a while our visitor moves on, presumably to a more promising table. However, not before registering its displeasure by relieving itself and taking a dump by our feet. That time it was kind of funny. Second time around, not so much. If it happens again tomorrow, one of the boys is getting a lizard skin wallet as a souvenir.

Orchard Ranch is about a 20 minute drive from our hotel and when we arrive, the place looks deserted. Nothing has been busy here (the hotel is mostly empty as well) so we’re not completely surprised. In fact, we’re hopeful it means shorter lines and less waiting which turns out to be the case. After just a few minutes, we’re off to the first of the zip lines.

Our cameras a pretty safely tucked away so no pictures/video, but it’s pretty much like any other zip-lining we’ve done. The lines are a little longer maybe (one goes for a kilometer and a half), but once you’ve done a few it starts to feel a little repetitive.

After a short break, we’re back into the jungle for a short trek to the waterfall. Along the way we see a few different colonies of ants. The leaf-cutter ants were our favorites, all marching in a column several hundred feet long with pieces of leaves they were harvesting from one of trees along the trail.

Our guide also points out a stream of ants he calls butcher ants. I tried to find out more about them using Google but came up empty, so it’s possible they are also called something else. Apparently, they are nomadic, wandering around constantly looking for meat. If the story is true, locals will sometimes try and attract them through their homes as a way to control pests as once they are done, whatever rats, mice, bugs, etc. you may have had are cleaned right out.

From the top of the waterfall, it sure looks like a long way down. It is only about 100 feet, broken into two sections with a shelf in between, but it feels like a lot more.

Give it up for G.I. Jane…

It’s a lot of fun and a refreshing break on a hot, humid day. We’re happy it was out last event of the day though as everything we have on is completely soaked. I can’t even guess how long it will take boots to dry in this climate.

On the way back to the hotel, we make a couple of stops, first to pick up a bag of rambutans from a lady selling them on the side of the road, and then at a fried chicken shack next to a car wash. We’re getting a little desperate to add some variety to the food choices here and this seemed like a good way to mix it up a little.

Tomorrow, sadly, is a work day, so I expect much of it will be spent in front of a computer.

We met a couple from DC here last night and, while they loved the resort, were a little disappointed in how quiet things were. It sounded a little disconcerting at the time, but fast forward 24 hours and all I really have to report is that we have done absolutely nothing. From breakfast, we made the long trek to a couple of loungers set in the shade of a big tree. After several hours building our energy back up, it was then time to relocate to the pool. Pretty big day.

Like the two and three-toed varieties, it seems like we are also nocturnal, as once the sun sets we start to move. It is a short drive into town where the shops and restaurants are so we’re off in search of some excitement which, on a relative basis, should really not be too difficult.

For our last day in Manuel Antonio we have booked a boat tour through the mangroves. It is another early start, but even though the package includes breakfast, we learned our lesson hiking in Peru and make the extra effort to fill up at the hotel. Our guide, who in the low season does double duty as the driver, shows up right on time and, to our pleasant surprise, lets us know there is only one other couple booked today.

The drive takes about 30 minutes, through Quepos and past some of the palm oil plantations that make up this area. Breakfast is spread out our arrival and we have a full selection of juice AND cookies to pick from. Such a shame that we’ve already eaten.

Out on the boat, we move lazily through the canals, pulling in close to shore when guides see something in the trees. The point out a small boa constrictor sleeping up in a branch, a crocodile, and countless birds, like this hawk giving us the eye as we sail by.

The find of the day is this small blob of fur, which we’re told is a Silky Anteater. Very rare to spot apparently so, along with the sloth, we’re two for two.

It is very peaceful out on the canals, quiet, comfortable temperature, and the sounds of nature all around. Once in awhile we come across locals, like this fellow fishing for crabs (literally fishing, as is in using a line and a hook to catch them one at a time). Definitely not the life for me, but I’m sure their stress levels put mine to complete shame.

Back near the dock we see one last critter. The Jesus Christ Lizard gets its name from the ability to run across the surface of the water. There are a few longing in the sun on a small island in the canal and, as we approach, one takes off for the shore. No video unfortunately, but quite impressive to see their limbs flying as they skip away to safety.

With the tour out of the way, it’s time to head up the coast about an hour to the Jaco. This is more of a tourist town, with new construction slowly shifting the mix from surfers to resort goers. When we arrive at the Marriott, I fully anticipate my fellow adventurer dropping to her knees and kissing the floor. After a long journey, she’s finally home.

It is another bright, sunny day in Costa Rica and we’re out fairly early to beat the crowds at the park. We make a quick stop at the ticket booth ($16 for foreigners) and then work on finding a guide. We have read a few warnings about untrained people wearing official looking gear that will walk you through the park but don’t really know much, so we’re trying to be choose carefully. Eventually we come across a group whose name we recognize from our guide book. They have a tour starting with an English guide for $20 each. Normally, we’d opt for something private so that we can move at our own pace, but there is only one other couple signed up so far, which we figure is pretty manageable.

When we first started traveling, we often considered hiring a guide to be a waste of money. After all, the guide books told us pretty much the same stuff. It doesn’t take long to appreciate their value here though. Where all we see is acres and acres of green jungle, Fabian is pointing out bats, land crabs, lizards and spiders that are just a few feet away, but invisible to mere tourists like ourselves. He is also armed with a telescope that gives a much closer view of the wildlife.

As we wander along the trail, there is a sudden rush of excitement. One of the guides has spotted a sloth, high in the trees, looking (slowly, of course) for a place to sleep. It is one of the major things to see at this park and they are not always visible so we take that as a win.

Continuing on we also spot an agouti, which is basically the killer squirrel from your nightmares. Topping out at 18 pounds (yes, the size of 6 month old child, although I didn’t have one handy for context), these giant rodents will bark like a dog when threatened and can haunt your dreams for up to 20 years. They’re harmless really, but still, if an 18 pound squirrel doesn’t blow your mind, not much will.

Of course no tour through the jungle would be complete without monkeys, and here they don’t disappoint. There have been people coming to the park with food long enough that they know all of the best places to hang out now and are happy to pose for photos while their buddies sneak in behind you and pick through your bags.

The tour ends at the beach, where Fabian leaves us to relax for the day. The water is warm and if you’re willing to walk a bit, the crowds quickly thin out.

We spend a few hours just relaxing, reading, and watching the coati (Costa Rican raccoons) try and steal things from unsuspecting beachgoers. They’re tenacious little buggers, and it quickly becomes clear who has been down this road before, as the savvy visitors have all hung their things in trees while the newbs just leave them on the ground.

For dinner we head into Quepos, which is the main town nearby. It is a change of pace, I managed to lose my sunglasses to the waves and need some replacements before our tour tomorrow. Sadly, there isn’t a whole lot there (or we just don’t know where to look), and after wandering around looking for inspiration, we end up in a bar overlooking the street eating a pretty mediocre meal. We passed a ton of restaurants on the way from Manuel Antonio so it is a bit of a let down in that regard, but I guess now we know.

Today, we finally have nowhere to get to by any particular time, and it feels glorious. It’s sunny and warm (but humid, as we are right next to the jungle) as we start our adventure with breakfast by the pool.

When we booked this trip, we took comfort in that, according to Lonely Planet, the rainy season runs from May to October, with November being the shoulder period before the dry season. In theory, that makes for cheaper hotels, less crowded sights, and slightly more comfortable temperatures, which all sound pretty good to us. With the tickets booked and our agenda starting to take shape, however, we increasingly come across nuggets like these:

“In our experience November has been the worst month for roads.”

“November is a good choice for low season prices, but if the possibility of record rainfall seems like too much of a gamble you might consider pushing your vacation back to the first two weeks of December.”

That said, we’re really not sure what to expect for the next three weeks. Fingers crossed the days all look like today.

We wander a few hundred meters down the road to the public beach, which is mostly deserted, running about a quarter mile in either direction. There are vendors renting beach chairs and umbrellas, but we opt instead to just stroll along the water, listening to the waves. It is definitely a spot where one could easily let a day slip by with a good book, but we’re still getting our bearings and have more places to check out.

Along the ocean there are a handful of restaurants, with most offering Costa Rican food. We find one where Happy Hour has already started and sit down to try a casado – a typical meal comprised of rice, beans, plantains, salad, and meat (a pork chop in this case). My fellow traveler pairs this up with a two-for-one margarita order, so things could get interesting.

The food is good, but unexciting. The drinks, well, after quickly draining two glasses, I expect to see my better half either dancing on the table to music she doesn’t understand, or face down the sidewalk, with other tourists stepping over her to get to where they are headed. Neither happens, which is no fun for me at all. Instead, we pay our bill (for lunch and two-for-one margarita mix it seems) and head back towards the hotel.

In the opposite direction, also a couple of hundred meters away, is the entrance to Manuel Antonio Park. This is one of the smallest national parks in Costa Rica but, according to all that we have read, one of the most popular. It is a full day affair, so today we just wanted to check out the area nearby and get an idea where we’ll need to get our tickets and find a guide. There are vendors all along the route selling souvenirs and snacks, including something called a Coco Loco, which appears to be a shot of rum poured into fresh coconut.

We also see a bird that everyone around us is quite excitedly pointing at. They say it is a toucan, but everyone knows that toucans are blue and have stripped beaks.

As we’re near the equator, the sun sets pretty early (about 5:45pm every day through the year) and before long there isn’t much left to look for other than dinner. Tomorrow we plan on hitting the park early as, even though it is still low season, it will be the weekend and likely a little crowded.

Our day begins pretty much the opposite of how we envisioned it. Instead of sleeping in and shifting into vacation mode, we up early, repacking, and hopping into an Uber for the airport. We have 3 more hours in the air but, hopefully, will finally get to our destination around 11am local time. All in all, that won’t put us too far off of our original schedule as our rental car pick up was pretty close to that anyway. From San Juan, the plan is to drive south to Manuel Antonio, arriving in time to catch the sunset.

Joining us on this leg of the journey are three chatty old men from Ft. Lauderdale. At least two are veterans of the trip, sharing their wisdom on how easy it is to get Viagra in Costa Rica (apparently 100mg is the gold standard) and making arrangements with the third to trade 7 pills for a bottle of rum. From the discussion, it also sounds like they must have great plumbers is Costa Rica, as one old duffer has arranged for someone to drive an hour to each way to “clean his pipes”. I don’t know how many pipes you can get cleaned for $60 as he didn’t appear to have any with him. Must have been in his checked baggage.

For us, the wheels start to go off the bus shortly after we land. Clearly we aren’t the only flight arriving as the immigration line winds all the way back through the ropes and back into the hallway. Thinking we would be comfortably situated in our hotel at this time, I scheduled a few necessary conference calls that I could take care of before hitting the road. Call one happens from the bowels of the airport as we slowly weave our way back and forth towards immigration. Connectivity is surprisingly good given the circumstances so perhaps this is a common occurrence here.

Call number two happens standing outside of the rental car office. It is hot, humid, and my travel companion is putting out a bit of an unhappy vibe (as Mr. Pickles would say, “please don’t use a bad word when you can use a good one.”)

We’ve heard horror about booking a car in Costa Rica, only to arrive at the rental counter and have the price double or triple with mandatory insurance and fees. We’re a bit nervous as the stubborn side of me would ride a bus for three weeks before paying $1,5000, but armed with a bit of Internet advice and a letter prepared by our credit card company highlighting their coverage, we sailed through.

The drive itself is mostly uneventful. The roads are all in good condition, although very curvy generally only two (skinny) lanes wide so every slow truck trying to grind its way up a hill slows everything down to a crawl. With all the delays, the final 45 minutes or so are in the dark, just as the rain starts up. It’s a bit stressful as they don’t seem to have discovered lane markers or street lights yet, investing instead in the deepest gutters money can buy.

We do make it to the hotel in one piece, and without a scratch on our brand new car. We’re stating just a short walk from both Manuel Antonio Park and the beach, so the location should be great. All that will have wait until tomorrow though, as with two long travel days plus the plague, we’re completely gassed, relying on our old standby, noodle soup, for some quick calories before crashing hard for the night.