Vieques Beyond the W
We decide that today calls for a road trip. So after a quick breakfast we pack up and head across the street to a local rental car agency. Cars aren’t cheap on Vieques, so after checking out a collection of different beat up old vehicles, we settle on the one that looks the least likely to fall apart but still has air conditioning. Even then, it’s $60/day for a ride that looks like what a high school kid might drive (although a regular high school kid, not any self-respecting kid from Redmond), but we need transportation, so it’s Econ 101 at its finest.
The gas tank is pretty much empty, but there is a town on the other side of the island and we figure we’ll get there easily enough (the island is only a couple miles wide after all). This decision will prove unwise, but for now we are finally free of the hotel and on our way to nicer beaches on the Caribbean Sea side of the island.
On the way, we pass through the town of Esperanza. It is clearly the more tourist-oriented town of the two that are on Vieques, with a string of restaurants along the waterfront and a few shops selling activities. Were I ever to come back to the island, this is where I would stay, as on a relative basis, this is Disneyland compared to where we are. What they don’t have, unfortunately, is a gas station.
The warning light hasn’t been on long, so rather than cross all the way back over (it’s not too far as the crow flies, but with a fairly twisty road going up and over the ridge, it takes a fair amount of time), we decide to press onto Red Beach, which the rental car clerk told us was the best one to visit. It is definitely a step up from the beach at the W, with much calmer water and much softer sand. We’re totally unprepared to be on a public beach compared to the people that have shown up with chairs, umbrellas, coolers, and barbeques, but we’re lucky enough to wander by one of the covered picnic tables just as a group is leaving so get a place to set up out things out of the sun.
We spend a few hours playing in the sand and the water before deciding to check out Black Beach. I’m willing to just keep driving, but despite all her other charms, Angela makes a horrible Louise to my Thelma, so before going anywhere, she wants gas. As it turns out, there are only two gas stations on all of Vieques, both run by the same company, and strategically placed a block apart. It is Sunday though, so only one station is open, meaning there is a line of cars down the street like the oil embargo is still in full swing.
With no other option, we wait our turn in line, happily learning when our time comes that on Vieques, gas is a cash only business. Our cash however, is securely locked up in the hotel safe, and the best we are able to scratch together is $3. We sheepishly pump our ¾ of a gallon of gas, which at least gets us back to the hotel, where we pick up some cash and retake our place again at the back of the line.
Gas problem solved, we continue on our quest for Black Beach. It’s fairly prominently marked on the map, but we can’t find anything other than a faded sign nailed to a tree, so we decide to head on a bit further to Long Beach. It’s much more deserted than Red Beach and the water rougher, but the waves give the boys something new to do and they spend a good hour or so honing their body surfing skills.
It’s getting late in the afternoon, so we decide to pack up and head back towards Esperanza to find a place for dinner. Passing the tree sign for Black Beach, we see a car parked in the turnout, which piques my curiosity enough to stop and take a look. As I am parking the car, it makes an unnatural sounding clunk, followed by the entire passenger side corner sinking down several inches. My spidey sense tells me this is a bad thing, so I put the car in park and get out to assess.
The wheel tilting out from the car and the big metal bar hanging down into the dirt seem to indicate a problem (the dented bumper was a previous customization), so we call the rental office for roadside assistance, and are soon rewarded with the arrival of a sweaty 400 pound man who speaks no English. He takes us back to the office (across the island again) where our sweet ride is replaced with another high-end automobile.
We’re mostly adventured out by this point and only interested in dinner. Of course, no restaurants on this side of the island, so up and over we go again. The meal is a little uninspiring, but at a food cart we discover Pinchos, which are skewers of meat grilled up and topped with a piece of garlic bread. For $2, they are good value and the high point of Puerto Rican cuisine for us so far.