Udaipur

After 12 hours on the train, swapping cabin-buddies about halfway through, I’m not sure there is anyone as relieved to step on the platform as Ang. She’s a poster child for the eight, eight ounce glasses of water movement, but it’s a classic rookie mistake to drink a lot of fluids before putting yourself in place with limited bathroom options, particularly one that smells so foul that it can’t (and shouldn’t) be put into words. It’s 100% childish, but each time I hear her slide the cabin door open in the night, I can’t help but chuckle.

Following Delhi and Agra, arriving in Udaipur is like stepping off the train into a different world. For starters, it’s actually on the chilly side, but more importantly, the total sensory overload has given way to something far more manageable. The air is cleaner (note that I did not say clean), the streets less crowded, and while there is still a lot of garbage, less of it seems to be rotting, which is plus. We’re also back in Sheraton territory, which has my travel partner giddy with excitement.

Udaipur was the last capital of Mewar, before the region became part of an independent India. The setting is pure storybook, with vast palaces set next to a lake (plus two covering an entire islands in the lake themselves) surrounded by tree-covered hills. It is much more the India we envisioned before coming here, so after a quick shower and breakfast, we are anxious to head into the Old City and check it out.

After a short tuk-tuk ride, we find ourselves in a warren of narrow streets, packed with a random mix of cars, people and motorbikes. It’s loud and chaotic, but in an intoxicating sort of way. If you described it to me, I’d tell it you it sounds horrible, but somehow, it pulls you in until you can’t wait to see what’s around the next corner.

We do a little exploring, before ending up at the gates of the City Palace. It’s a massive complex, built up over several centuries, and was the main residence of the Mewar royal family prior to independence. It has since been separated into various sections housing 5-star hotels, a museum, and parts simply being left to decay. The tour is quite interesting, and as an added bonus for the shopper amongst us, a small collection of stores conveniently located on the grounds.

Our last stop for the evening is a quiet rooftop restaurant not far from the palace, where we are able to enjoy some good food, and just watch the city after dark.