Lago Todos Los Santos
We’re hitting the road today, and after a bit of debate, decide to head north towards the mountains. We have one more night booked here in Puerto Montt, so don’t want to get too far away a leave ourselves with a long drive back, and fortunately, there is a good spot about an hour away. The road to Parque Nacional Vicente Pérez Rosales takes us along the shore of Lake Llanquihue, and before long, we see Volcán Osorno off in the distance. In the winter this is a local ski resort, and while we’re a bit too late in the season for that, the smooth, snow capped peak calls out for some fresh tracks.
Our first stop is Saltos de Petrohué, which is just a short hike off the main road. The views are spectacular and the crystal clear water the most amazing shade of green.
A bit further along the road (pretty much the end of it really) is lies the tiny town of Petrohué. It’s not much more than a hotel and a beach with boats offering tours of Lago Todos Los Santos. Given how many are lined up waiting for passengers, summer must get pretty busy here, but at this time of year, a couple of pasty Canadians look pretty darn good.
Along the shore there are a lot of summer cottages accessible only by boat, and picking up every third word our captain tells us, I gather most of them are owned by people from Santiago, who use them for only a couple of months a year. This one looked particularly appealing to me given it’s awesome views and complete lack of neighbors 🙂
Heading back towards Puerto Montt, I have the burning need to drive up the volcano as far as the road will let us. Close to the top, we find the ski lift still running, taking tourists on a 15 minute ride part way up the mountain.
From there, a few trails head off through the fine sand to different viewpoints. At times it is like walking on a deserted beach, only 8,000 feet up from the nearest body of water.
Our final stop is the town of Puerto Varas, the main town for tourists on the lake and, according to our guidebook, a wonderful parilla, where we can put a local steak to the test against those just across the border in Bariloche. It’s a tasty challenge and almost too close call, but I have to give this one to Argentina, if only because here a one pound rib-eye clocks in at an eye-popping $12 (a whole $2 more).
Bonus points for the most delicious churros ever though. Joey, this one’s for you buddy 🙂