Angkor Wat Sunrise

The Roberts’ claim to fame is missing breakfast because we can’t get out of the room in time, so we’re as surprised as anyone to be heading out of the hotel before it even starts. Sunrise happens around 5:45am, so to get a good spot, our driver meets us in the lobby at 4:30am. We have a very full day planned seeing some of the sights further out, but start off back at Angkor Wat. Tour groups are already starting to arrive by the time we pull in so we hustle over to the shore of a small lake where we’re told the view will be the best. And then wait.

Now I have a LOT of pictures of Angkor Wat in the morning. When you have nothing to do but stand and wait for an hour, you sort of lose track of how many you take. I can’t even look through them all to decide yet which ones to keep, but I do manage to flag a couple to share here.

With the sun up, we also get a chance to see the temple from the front gate (remember, our guide brought us in the back the first time we were here). I appreciate missing the crowds at the time, but the experience coming at it from this direction much, much different. Definitely more of a “wow” moment, so I’m glad we didn’t leave Siem Reap without seeing it.

From there, we settle in for the hour long drive to Banteay Srei, a 10th-century temple whose name translates roughly to the Lady Temple. Our guide book attributes this to the intricate bas relief carvings, and that something so detailed could only have been commissioned by women. Seems like a stretch, but I’ll let my travel mate win that one.

And now it’s time for Silly Songs with Larry, the part of the show where Larry comes out and sings a silly song.

That probably only makes sense to my boys.

An other hour further on is Phnom Kulen, the most holy mountain in Cambodia and the birthplace of the Khmer Empire. Years ago, getting to the summit meant a day long hike, but seeing opportunity, an enterprising businessman showed up with a bulldozer and carved a road through the jungle that tourists can use for $20 a head. It is only one lane, so in the morning traffic can only go up and in the afternoon traffic can only come down. Miss your window and you’re stuck until the next day.

There is a temple at the top with a giant reclining Buddha and, of course, all manner of snacks. The deep-fried bananas are delicious (and hot oil kills almost anything so deep-fried generally equals stomach-friendly), but still no takers on the excellent collection of bugs. At fifty cents for a soup can full, they are hard to turn down.

Also here is Kbal Spean, literally over 1,000 small penises carved into the riverbed. The water is still high from the rainy season so we only get to partake from the shore, a disappointing turn of events for the rest of my tour group.

The final attraction is a waterfall and pool. With the public holiday still in full swing, the place is packed, and as we fight our way out, even more people continue to stream in.

For me, the absolute highlight is the realization on my trusty travel partners face when she realizes she can’t make it all the way to the bottom of the mountain before using the facilities. We’re in luck though as there is a fine looking building for just a purpose located near the parking lot. As per custom, sandals are to be left at the door. I can’t see any reason why you’d need them.

Cholera averted, we start circling back towards Siem Reap, making our last stop at Beng Mealea. Identical to Angkor Wat, but on a smaller scale, Being Mealea remains pretty much how it was when the French “discovered” it. The crowds are much smaller, and walkways built through the ruins allow you to get right up close to what is still some very impressive construction. It may be the relative solitude, or perhaps the opportunity to let your imagination run free, but of them all, I found this temple the easiest to “connect” with. On a longer trip, I could easily spend a day wandering through the various twist and turns.

With such an early start, we’ve managed to tick all of these things off our list and still be back to Siem Reap by 3:30. The tank is pretty empty though, leaving just enough energy for one last dinner here and a massage. Tomorrow we’re off to Phnom Penh on the second nicest bus line in the country. Somehow I suspect that isn’t near as good as it sounds.