Kep

Some 20 minutes from Kampot (or 45 minutes in a creaky tuk-tuk that struggles to haul our rice-laden bodies up and over hills) lies Kep. Word on the street is that life is even more relaxed there than in Kampot – hard to believe given we only burned about 65 calories yesterday. Our hotel is a bit of an upgrade from the last one, with a pool and a view of the bay. It is also near the crab market, which seems like as good of a place as any to start exploring.

Being right on the ocean, seafood is a pretty big deal here, and all along the waterfront are shacks serving a host of different options. The one we read about everywhere though is pepper crab, a combination of blue crabs caught just offshore, and a sauce made from green Kampot peppercorns. Delicious, as advertised, but more work than I’d be willing to do very often.

Next to the string of restaurants, is the market itself, where one with such an interest can buy all kinds of interesting creatures pulled fresh from the sea.

After a quiet afternoon by the pool, we decide to walk to the beach in search of more restaurants. There is a ton of activity, mostly locals, but surprisingly few places to eat. Various street carts are grilling up meats that have been ground up and reformed into commonly recognized shapes, but we’ve already made that mistake and decide to pass.

Somewhat frustrated, and with lightning off in the distance, we hire a tuk-tuk to take us back to the crab market. There we find a place run by a former New Yorker, Brooklyn accent still intact, that has a great upstairs area to relax and watch the storm roll through.

Tomorrow we’re set to tour the area around Kep, so should have a bit more to report.