Island Life
It is quite the burden to have to pack up ones things from a poolside bungalow and move them all to a the sandy beach of a nearly deserted tropical island. We’re hearty stock though, raised in the harsh climate of northern Canada, so if anyone is up to the challenge, we are.
The trip from Sihanoukville to Koh Rong Sanloem takes about 40 minutes on a fast ferry. There are no ATMs on the island, so before we depart, we stock up on cash and a few emergency snacks. The Flaming Hot Funyuns tempt us, but as we’re not headed to the party island (Koh Rong) they probably won’t be necessary.
On arrival, we are met at the pier by a smaller boat. There are no roads here, so transport to the hotels is all by water. We’re booked the next four nights at the aptly named “Pipes Resort”, given that our room is built into a 15-foot section of concrete pipe. It feels like something more suited to a Mars mission but the location is hard to beat, just steps from the water.
A very loud group of tourists has parked themselves on the loungers in front of our pipe though, and that has us a little worried as it isn’t something we want to deal with for the next four days. However, before we can focus on that, the first order of business – chicken fried rice and a beer (of course) that we find at a place a few hundred yards down the beach. Even in the shade it is crazy hot, and while waiting for our food, I can’t help but wonder how many other sweaty dudes have sprawled out across these same cushions in just a pair of swimming trunks. Perhaps they are hidden behind the buildings, but I have yet to see any giant washing machines where they might give these things a regular rinse. Pleasant thought.
The good news is that, by the time we return, our unwelcome guests have moved on. It turns our boats from the mainland bring day-trippers to this island and, as long as you buy a drink, you can sit pretty much anywhere. It is still a little disconcerting that we may see a revolving door of people crowding our small slice of paradise, but knowing they don’t stay long is some consolation.
For dinner we end up no more than 60 paces from our front door. The tide is out and the hotel has set up a half dozen tables surrounded by torches right on the beach for a BBQ. I forgot how much work it is to eat fish when they serve it whole, but it is well worth the effort. Or maybe everything just tastes better under the stars with your feet in the sand.