Snæfellsnes Peninsula
Following yesterday’s “adventure”, there is some support for just taking it easy today. However, we’ve seen Reykjavik already, and as this is our last full day here, it seems like a waste to not make the most of it. So, after what is easily the best breakfast we’ve had since we got here, we’re heading north to the Snæfellsnes Peninsula.
For Jules Verne fans, Snæfellsnes Peninsula is the home of Snæfellsjökull, the volcano that is the entry point for the Journey to the Center of the Earth. There is a tour there through some lava tubes, including Vatnshellir Cave, an 8,000-year-old lava tube that reaches 35 meters below the surface of the earth. This has caught the boys’ attention, so will be our primary destinations.
Along the way, we stop in the quaint little town of Borgarnes, to visit a small museum the details the history of how Iceland was settled. In addition, there is an exhibit that depicts one of the famous Icelandic tales, Egil’s saga. It’s all interesting, but much to my surprise, Joey likes it so much that he wants to buy the book. Never, in a million years, would I have expected a 13-year old boy to seriously consider spending his own money on this 782 page tome.
Books here are crazy expensive ($40 for this one, even though we can see the “U.S. $19.99” price through the sticker), so we figure it’s best to just order it when we get home.
Our stop in Borgarnes took a bit longer than expected so, back on the road we’re in a bit of a race to get to the lava tubes before they close. The last tour is at 2pm, and according to Google, we’ll arrive at 2:05. We call ahead to confirm they’ll still let us join, and with a little Jimmy Neutron driving we hope to shave a few minutes off. Of course the snow picks now to start falling…
We do make it just it time, and rushing with our helmets and flashlights, we catch up to our guide just as people are heading down into the darkness.
By the time we make it to the second level, the only lights are those we have brought with us. When we all turn them off, it couldn’t possibly be any blacker. The tunnels here are much larger than we walked through in the Galapagos Islands, but given the circumstances, there aren’t a whole lot of opportunities for pictures. That’s a bit of good news, as it turns out being trapped underground makes people look a whole lot crazier than they do on the surface (with the possible exception of Joey…).
A short drive from the caves are the Lóndrangar basalt cliffs, a pair of volcanic lava pinnacles that stick out from the sea on the coastline. It’s cold and windy (so at least one of us is a little unhappy), but the short hike to the viewpoint is definitely worth it. We have the place to ourselves so are able to relax a little take it all in – watching the waves crash against the rocks and the birds floating effortlessly in the updrafts.
Fun (or slightly loco, depending on your perspective) fact, according to our guidebook, farmers here believe the land around the basalt cliffs belongs to the elves that live on it. I checked the bottom of my shoes before getting back in the car and they looked pretty clean, so I guess they don’t like the cold either.
Having missed the glaciers at Skaftafell, it seems only logical to take advantage of the better weather here to see the glacier at Snæfellsjökull. The road looks clear and my hearty navigator is in full support of our mission to explore one of the most famous sites in Iceland.
Of course, that’s about as believable as the elves. Instead, after Mom teaching the boys a few new words, we’ve turned the car around and are headed back to Reykjavik.
With just one night left, we have decided to bite the bullet and stay in the heart of the city so that we can walk through it one last time. It turns out to be nice enough (if it’s good enough for Yeezy surely it is good enough for the Roberts’), but definitely not our style. Parking is a huge hassle and the rooms are not much bigger than the Sugar Shack. On a price per square foot basis, I feel violated.
It is a wonderful evening though, just below freezing and snow lightly falling. We find a spot to try a few Icelandic specialities (although not the really weird ones), and a small market to pick up a few things for breakfast in the morning. With a mid-afternoon departure, we have little time tomorrow to see one or two more things if the mood strikes us, but at the moment, the crew looks pretty tired, meaning our adventure may be at its end.