Uffizi/Galleria dell’Accademia
We have three main things on tap for today: find a place to sleep tonight; tour the Uffizi Gallery; and, see the statue of David at the Galleria dell’Accademia. The latter two have specific times we had to choose when we booked the tickets in Sorrento, so the agenda is pretty rigid. Friday night means pretty slim pickings hotel-wise, but we finally manage to find a room in a B&B right in the center of the old town. Not 100% sure what we’ll find when we check in, but we have no time to worry about it as we rush off to make our first appointment.
The Uffizi Gallery is one of the most visited museums in the world and today is no exception. It feels as crowded, if not more, than the Vatican Museum and, despite the hassle, it makes sense now why they limit access. Our tickets do not include a guide and, in retrospect, that was probably a mistake, but after a great deal of struggle (and a minor crisis prompted by my trip photographer temporarily losing her phone, we manage to get a podcast loaded onto our phone to at least get some of the highlights.
Throughout the gallery, there are fantastic examples of Roman sculpture and pre-Renaissance art (the original collection was gifted to the city of Florence by the last of the Medici), but its claim to fame is the mind-boggling collection of works from nearly all of the Ninja Turtles. Leonardo (including another one he didn’t finish – what is up with that guy?), Michelangelo, and Raphael all have dedicated rooms here (Donatello is also well-represented in Florence, but I didn’t see anything of his in the Uffizi – could be the work of Shredder), surrounded by Botticelli, Titian, Caravaggio, Lippi, and others.
Growing up in a town where the museum consists of old farm tools and an owl collection it overloads the circuits and, before long, we’re gliding by 500 year old paintings worth millions of dollars each with little more than a glance. One item that does catch my eye is this sculpture by Bernini.
It was finished when he was 15 years old. 15. At 15 I think I did a rug hook Snoopy like this one:
After the Uffizi, we have a bit of a gap that we put to good use by squeezing in a visit to the Duomo. It suits what was one of the richest cities in Italy, with soaring spaces, incredible stained glass windows, and a dome that holds its own with the one at St. Peter’s.
If we had more time in Florence, the Duomo is another place that would be better with a knowledgeable guide but, absent that, we do find a kiosk with a multimedia tour you can watch for two Euros. Better than nothing.
Our last scheduled stop is the Galleria dell’Accademia. Compared to the Uffizi, this museum is tiny, taking up just a handful of rooms. In the center of one, however, is Michelangelo’s David. Everyone has seen pictures at one time or another and these won’t be any different. You simply have to see it.
While David steals the show, there are some other interesting pieces, including some other unfinished sculptures by Michelangelo and an interesting exhibit showing the process of turning original, scaled-down clay sculptures into plaster casts and, finally, the full-sized marble work. Turns out they don’t just find a nice block of marble and start going to town with a hammer and chisel.
By the time we leave the Galleria, we can’t possibly take any more in. We pick up our bags, check into our new digs, which are surprisingly nice, once you figure out you have to check in at a hotel three blocks away to get the key. The location couldn’t be better and, after a nice dinner and some over the top gelato at a place called Venchi, we kick back and relax, windows open listening to the sounds of the performers in the plaza below. What a day!