Day 2 < Day 1

So may day began like this. In our hotel room are two cots. Each is covered with what I guess one might call memory foam. I say this because I am in exactly the same position I fell asleep in, depressed into a form-fitting cocoon like a high-priced figurine ready to ship from the factory. Although I may be well protected against an accidental drop, it is surprisingly uncomfortable and takes an inordinate amount of effort simply to roll up over the edge of the mattress and get my feet on the floor.

It still feels early, but we are running slightly behind the tour bus full of silver foxes, who have already descended on the breakfast spread, leaving behind a few croissants and two tomato slices. There’s a scene in the Grinch where he reaches back out of the chimney to pick up a rouge crumb that a mouse was about to eat. I look around a bit, waiting for a liver-spotted hand to snake out and grab those last tomatoes.

My trail amigo is not deterred however. A few colorful words were spoken getting up and out the door but, boots on the ground, she’s ready to go.

The route today takes us out of town on a long climb to Santa Mariña. The “standard” itinerary is to push 6 miles further to Olveiroa (20 in total), but that’s too much for us so we have split in into two stages.

If you have ever watched people climb Everest, you have seen that up in the death zone, the air is so thin that you can only take a few steps before resting to catch your breath. We’ve determined that anything past 10 miles is in the death zone for my fellow pilgrim and that, instead of bottled oxygen, the only thing that helps is a relaxing break and some lunch. Fortunately, on the Camino, you’re never really that far away from a hostel with a café. Not the healthiest choice here, but plenty of calories to power through the last few miles.

By mile 13, I feel a mutiny brewing and check the route map I installed back in Santiago. The good news is that it shows out lodging for the night a mere half mile away. The bad news is the recent review that reads:

“If you like flies and the smell of cow poop, this is your place. This albergue is next door to a factory cow farm, it stinks and flies won’t leave you alone. Beds very noisy with movement and crumbs and dirt on mattresses. Disposable sheets and pillowcases provided.”

This, I keep to myself.

Two down, three to go.