Logroño

After finishing the day yesterday in some pretty oppressive heat, we put a little extra effort into hitting the trail early. Our next stop, Logroño, is about 18 miles ahead so the further we can get while the temperature is still manageable the better. The downside is that nothing is open at this hour, even the church, so no stamp for the passports.

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There is more wheat on the agenda (why mess with a good thing), including a tortuous stretch after which Efe Bomba and Arándano Joe hit the eject button and switch to the bus.

This marks a bit of a turning point as things start to pick up not too much further ahead. The terrain gets a bit more hilly, but much of it has some tree cover, and where it is does open up, vineyards start taking over. The temperature still shows the same on my phone when I check, but somehow it sure feels cooler.

By 3pm though, as Nick and I finally stroll into Logroño, we are both feeling the effects of the day. It is a fairly large city, which means that in addition to the heat, the last mile or two are on hard concrete – pilgrim kryptonite. Thankfully, our support crew has thoughtfully prepared for our arrival with some cold beers and snacks. I don’t think I’ve actually drank this much beer since Stanford which, if you knew me at Stanford, is saying a lot.

After so many days getting torched in the sun, we are also finally smart enough to learn what everyone who isn’t a tourist in a hot country already knows – cover up. With some help from the local outfitter, we’re changing it up from t-shirts and shorts, into long pants, long sleeves, hats, and buffs. We look a bit like Tusken Raiders but at least the lizard skin should stay under control.