Astorga

Just when I thought walking a marathon during a heat wave was as bad as it could get, day one of our bike adventure says, “hold my beer”.

For context, none of really ride bikes. Efe Bomba has too many nerve problems so isn’t even attempting it. Nick rides a few miles to school and back (on days he actually makes it to class), and the closest Arandaño Joe and I get to a bike is brushing by one hanging in garage on our way to the car. We don’t have proper shorts or proper shoes. So what could possible go wrong signing up to ride 100 miles through the mountains?

For days we’ve watched bikers cruising by on downhill slopes, a cooling breeze in their faces, thinking how much easier that must be than walking. I even felt a little dirty ripping by my fellow pilgrims this morning on the smooth streets of León. What a difference an hour makes. By mile five, my ass is broken. I’m too proud to ask for the old man jelly seat at the bike shop so now I’m shifted over onto one cheek, bouncing along a rocky trail wondering how I’m even going to make it to our next stop in Astorga much less all the way to Sarria.

The downhills are indeed a pleasant change of pace, but the cost of pushing up the hills fast enough to keep from falling over sideways, helmet trapping in the heat until sweat is pouring down your face is simply not worth it. Not even close.

Out of food, out of water, I’m as close to seeing my spirit animal as I probably ever have been. Joey is miserable. Nick has to talk a good game since this was his dumb idea but I’ve seen him looking better. Just then we see it. It the absolute middle of nowhere, a hippie outpost, complete with water, lemonade, fresh fruit, and cookies. Donations accepted, and by the pile of bills and coins, we’re not the only ones who were in desperate need of refueling.

By the time we drag ourselves into Astorga, slowly pushing our bikes up the final hill, it is just crossing into the single digits. Other than us, the square in front of our hotel is devoid of living things. Efe Bomba has arrived ahead of us and transformed our rooms into a small paradise, with cold drinks, snacks, and, most importantly, cranked up air conditioning. We are beyond happy to ditch our bikes in the garage and slowly try to rebuild our shattered spirits.

Unfortunately, our story doesn’t end here with a good soak in the tub and comfortable night’s sleep as, just our luck, Astorga has some “must see” attractions. So after a quick nap it is time to rally up and cowboy walk across town.

First on the list is the cathedral, a sanctuary of cool stone in the oppressive heat. We’ve seen quite a few of these already and the impact is getting less each time, but those in charge have done a pretty good job here of making things a little more like a museum, with a detailed audioguide to explain the history of all the various nooks and crannies.

Next to the cathedral is the Palacio Episcopal de Astorga, constructed by the church to house church offices and the bishop’s residence. What makes this one unique is that it was designed by Gaudi (although it was finished by another architect who added some distinctly non-Gaudi elements).

All that’s left is finding a place to sit (why does that have to hurt so much?) and have a little dinner before turning in for the night. Pizza again, as that seems to be our go to break from bocadillos and tortillas.