Ngorongoro Crater

In my half-asleep state, I’m not quite if sure if the crunching sound next to my head is real or part of dream. As the head fog clears, I realize that it is indeed coming from just outside the tent. Slowly zipping open the flap, I stick my head out to find that a herd of these guys has moved in during the night and is snacking right in the middle of camp.

They are gone again by morning, with just a few stragglers off in the distance watching as we pack up our gear and head down into the crater. Technically a caldera more than a crater, the terrain here is like a condensed Serengeti but with permanent sources of water meaning the animals don’t need to migrate. There are zebras, wildebeest, buffalo, and gazelles everywhere.

Lions, hyenas, and warthogs? Check. Check. And check.

Far off in the distance, we also spot an elusive rhinoceros. It is standing in pretty tall grass and you definitely need binoculars to see it but we’re going to count it anyway, ticking the last of the “Big Five” off of our list.

With the altitude and all of the water, the temperature is much cooler here than on the Serengeti and the hippos take full advantage, sprawling themselves out on the ground to get a little sun.

The lake is also home to a few species of flamingo and our driver pulls over to make sure we can get a few photos. But flamingos I’ve seen before, rhinos I have not so we’re quickly back on the hunt for a closer sighting.

Sadly, it was not to be. We have a long drive back to Moshi ahead of us and after a few hours of searching, it is time to get on the road. By the time we finally pull up to the hotel, we’ve been in the jeep for more than 12 hours and I’m constantly shifting in my seat to find the on part of my butt cheeks that don’t hurt.

It has been a great (and somewhat unexpected) four days, but a hot shower and a real bed sound pretty good right about now. No rest for the weary though as tomorrow we’re right back at it. Kilimanjaro, here we come.